Ann’s sage advice to avoid Weed, CA, a town bearing the brunt of the deadly Mill wildfire, was sound on two accounts. For one, US-97, the bulk of the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway that I was hoping to ride, was shut-down near Weed, so I wouldn’t have been able to get through. Secondly, even though I was a little disappointed about missing parts of the byway, Ann’s suggested detour actually took me through three National Park units: Tule Lake National Monument, Lava Beds National Monument, and Lassen Volcanic National Park, that I probably wouldn’t have seen!
My first stop was Tulelake, a town now known as the “Gateway to the Lava Beds,” established in 1937 in response to Federal reclamation and construction projects associated with what is now known as the Tule Lake National Wildlife Refuge. The Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built a camp here to service these projects, which continued operation until 1942. In that same year, the camp switched operations to become one of ten War Relocation Centers. From one of the information signs on site: “Initially, it held over 15,000 of the approximately 120,000 men, women, and children of Japanese ancestry who were forcibly removed from their homes by a Presidential Executive Order. It was transformed into a segregation center in 1943 following a deeply flawed “loyalty questionnaire” that was used to separate supposedly “loyal” from “disloyal” Japanese Americans. Under segregation, the center’s population expanded to 18,789. Overcrowding, harsh living conditions, and mismanagement contributed to the strife and controversy that led to construction of a stockade with a jail, and the implementation of martial law.” From 1944-1946, the camp was cleared of Japanese-Americans, and then used to house approximately 950 Italian and German prisoners of war, who were used as laborers on local farms.
I was able to pick up the Volcanic Legacy Scenic Byway for a bit, and rode it past Tule Lake and into Lava Beds National Monument. I think the NPS website description gives a pretty accurate synopsis of the monument: “Lava Beds National Monument is a land of turmoil, both geological and historical. Over the last half-million years, volcanic eruptions on the Medicine Lake shield volcano have created a rugged landscape dotted with diverse volcanic features.” The 800+ caves, Native American rock art sites, and historic battlefields (Modoc War 1872-73), provide tangible artifacts to the monument’s violent past. Nature forged a rugged landscape, while continued European-American settler expansion forced Native Americans from their ancestral homelands.
After exploring one of the caves, I continued on a forest road that the ranger at the visitor center assured me was under construction for only a short way, but was open. I followed the pilot car for several miles through loose dirt and gravel, which by now I’ve gotten fairly proficient at riding on this trip, only to find myself on a seemingly neglected paved road through miles and miles of forest. I didn’t see another vehicle or person for quite some time and started to worry a bit. Without service, I hoped that the paper map on which I was relying was up-to-date. Sure enough, I finally popped out onto a more well-traveled road and continued on my way. Once I was back in cell service range, I was pleasantly surprised when my phone rang, and Aunt Ruth wanted to know if I was OK. A few family and friends have access to my real-time location through tracking devices, and she was concerned when it looked like I was in the middle of nowhere for a bit too long! As intrusive as modern technology can be, it can be reassuring as a solo traveler in remote locations when loved ones are tracking you 🙂
I overnighted in a little town called Burney, so that I could hit Lassen Volcanic National Park after breakfast. I met a wonderful woman in the parking lot as I was leaving the diner- I think her name was Monique. Her husband was retired military, but had passed away a few years ago. We had a lovely chat for a short time out in the parking lot before I had to leave, but I was so disappointed that I hadn’t seen her eating alone, I surely would’ve asked to sit with her. If I had, and she would’ve said “no thank you, I prefer to eat alone,” it would’ve been no big deal and we would’ve both moved on with our days having forgotten the encounter within a few minutes. But if she would’ve said “yes, please join me,” we would’ve shared a small piece of ourselves for a meal and remembered bits of the conversation and the other person for years to come. A missed opportunity 
I really had no idea what to expect as I entered Lassen Volcanic National Park. I guess I assumed I’d see lava beds similar to what I had just experienced at the previous monument, but I had no idea about the beauty that awaited! Lying at the crossroads of three biologically diverse regions – The Cascade Range to the north, the Sierra Nevada mountains to the south, and the Great Basin desert to the east – this convergence not only offers a stunning variety of landscapes, it is home to over 745 distinct species of flora and fauna. And on top of that, the twisty road was freshly paved and pristine! Finally, I hit road construction at the right time- after completion!!
I have to say, Lassen Volcanic National Park was a very pleasant surprise. Even though much of the forest still showed signs of last year’s Dixie Fire, the beauty and uniqueness of the park more than made up for the burnt landscape. It’s a bit ironic that a wildfire detour put me in this park, to witness the aftermath of fire, both the destruction and reconstruction it brings. It’s all so amazing!
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