So many good things came out of my road trip last summer – gorgeous scenery, impactful history lessons, amazing riding (despite ever-present road construction), and most-importantly, human connections. I’ve been incredibly fortunate that many of the interactions from my trip have resulted in continuing friendships, including from a chance encounter with fellow CVMA (Combat Veterans Motorcycle Association) members in Michigan. I met Mongo and Top (whose road name has since changed to Passport) in the U.P. (Upper Peninsula of Michigan) after a challenging crossing of the Mackinac Bridge towing the camper. They are members of CVMA Chapter MI 35-7, the Lost Boys. The three of us hit it off instantly and continued to run into each other for several days as we followed similar sightseeing routes across the U.P. (click HERE and HERE to read about the happenstances). We had planned to meet up again at the CVMA Nationals in Colorado this summer, but when my plans changed and I couldn’t go, they invited me to join them on a riding vacation they had planned later in the summer to Banner Elk, NC. Hey, that area includes so many great rides that at least a half-dozen of them are named routes, and it’s only 3.5 hours away. . . I’m in!
Banner Elk proved to be a great staging area for NC-TN mountain riding. Mongo and Passport swung down to Kentucky on their way from Michigan to pick up their friend Crash (member of CVMA KY Chapter 1-1, the Originals), and the three of them met me in the mountain ski town. In the evenings, we would pull out the map and pick a route packed full of squiggly-line roads to ride the next day. There’s no lack of twisty roads in the area, so each of the 5 days of riding were jam-packed with hairpin turns, alternating sweepers, and stunning vista overlooks. This pic is from a Roan Mountain overlook on TN-143, which is part of a ride called the Bushwacker.
We rode down to Little Switzerland, via the northern section of the Devil’s Whip (NC-80) for a delicious lunch at Switzerland Café and coffee at the Books and Beans, then slayed the infamous twisties of NC-226A, known as the Diamondback – thus the snake I’ve got my foot on 😊
Perfect light lunch at the Switzerland Café of whole, deboned rainbow trout smoked over applewood and served chilled with chopped red onions, capers, crackers, and cilantro yogurt dressing.
We jumped on the Blue Ridge Parkway after riding Diamondback and stopped at Linville Falls Visitor Center, from where Passport and I walked to the bottom tier of Linville Falls.
The second day of riding was an easy loop over Beech Mountain via NC-184 (Beech Mountain Parkway), then onto a short portion of the North Carolina Mission Crossing Scenic Byway (NC-194) for a stop at the original Mast General Store and lunch across the street at Over Yonder. This pic is at the Beech Mountain Parkway Overlook.
This original Mast General Store, located in Valle Crucis, was constructed in 1882 and run by the Mast family for over 60 years. The building is recognized by the National Register of Historic Places and is a must-stop on the NC Mission Crossing Scenic Byway.
Farmland in the foothills of Beech Mountain behind the original Mast General Store in Valle Crucis made a perfect backdrop for our Harley-Davidson and Indian herd.
Appalachian-inspired foods at the Over Yonder restaurant, conveniently located across the street from the Mast General Store, was the perfect spot for lunch. The restaurant is located on the former homestead of a founding family of Valle Crucis. I had the tomato cobbler – stewed onions and tomatoes with cheese and biscuit crust. Delicious!
Day 3 was a bit of a haul, but worth the extended ride so that Mongo and Passport could experience the awesomeness of Wheels Through Time Motorcycle Museum in Maggie Valley, NC. I’ve been to the museum numerous times over the years, and Crash had also previously visited, but it’s always worth a return visit!
Opened in 2002 by Dale Walksler, this 38,000 sq ft museum is chock full of vintage Harley-Davidson, Indian, and several other brand motorcycles; most of which still run. In fact, while we were in the museum, staff started a 1931 Indian Four, living up to its label as “The Museum that Runs!” The museum includes a restoration shop that was home to hundreds of historic motorcycle restorations by Dale and his staff. Dale was a former Harley-Davidson motorcycle dealer, a member of the American Motorcycle Association and Sturgis Motorcycle Halls of Fame, who devoted his life to the advancement of antique motorcycles and their history. Sadly, Dale passed away in 2021, but there is a YouTube channel where you can view videos of his Discovery Channel show, “What’s in the Barn?” as well as chronicles of amazing antique motorcycle restorations.
Day 4 was a ride back up into Tennessee via NC-194 and the section of the North Carolina Mission Crossing Scenic Byway that we hadn’t ridden yet. At the end of the byway, I declared that this was my new favorite ride in this part of NC! Perhaps it was because the foggy morning air provided a dramatic effect to the scenery, but this section of twisty road provided unforgettable glimpses of weathered barns, farmland, creeks, dew-coated spider-webs hanging from trees, and even a herd of deer feeding in a field adjacent to the road.
From NC-194 we headed towards a beautifully squiggly line on the map between Mountain City and Bristol. Not to be outdone by NC in the named-routes department, this section of US-421 is known as The Snake. Advertised as 1 valley (Shady Valley), 3 mountains (Iron Mtn, Holston Mtn, and ?), and 439 curves, this 37-mile section of road traverses farmland, mountain, and forest scenery. And those curves? They’re a trucker’s nightmare and a biker’s sweet dream!
Around the half-way point of The Snake in Shady Valley, TN is a biker’s haven known as the US-421 Country Store. A perfect place to stop and relive the previous twisties and prepare for those that lie ahead in the second half!
Crash and I said good-bye to Mongo and Passport in Bristol, TN as they headed north towards home in Michigan. He and I rode south to Grandfather Mountain so I could finally walk across the Mile High Swinging Bridge. Though it is one mile above sea-level, in reality, the 228-foot suspension bridge is only about 80-feet above the ground below. Nevertheless, it is an impressive feature offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains.
We were handed a piece of paper at the gate where we bought our tickets to Grandfather Mountain that provided warnings about the 2-mile winding, scenic ride up to the top of the mountain. But reading a piece of paper while balancing 700+ lb bikes while handing money to a ticket booth employee is not feasible, so I shoved the paper in my pocket and acknowledged the employees warning to “be careful, it’s pretty twisty up there.” How much worse can it be from what we’ve been riding for the past 4 days? The answer: much worse! I hadn’t experienced awesomely tight, hairpin turns leading into a sharp incline like those since riding in the Rocky Mountains!
Heed the warnings, this road is no joke!
On Day 5, Crash headed back to Kentucky and I headed north to check out Elk Knob, Mount Jefferson, and New River State Parks. This is the view from Sunset Overlook at Mount Jefferson State Natural Area in Ashe County. I added wild turkey to the list of live animals on the road during this trip, which included deer, dogs, and a turtle!
After 6 glorious days in the mountains, I packed up the bike and headed south towards the piedmont and home. The weather, the roads, the food, and the company were spectacular for the whole trip. It’s crazy to think that a chance encounter a year ago resulted in linking together three CVMA Chapters (KY 1-1, MI 35-7, and NC 15-1) for a week of fellowship on two-wheels. I’m really looking forward to riding with my new/old friends again in the future!
That is some beauty-mous riding. Wish I was there with y’all.
That is one beautiful Indian……
Chief
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